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  • We think it should come easily.

    kumquats_anneliesz

    If we have a talent or gift, somewhere along the way, we become convinced that that, in and of itself, is enough. We think that wanting to write is the same thing as the act itself. Somewhere we forget how the craft and the art are swallowed up by the full life we dive into with an ultimately overly optimistic sense of expectations.

    We think we don’t need to practice – that perfection comes in the first pass. We look at the face in the mirror and as we walk away forget how that face looked.

    It’s too easy to slough off the imperative to create. It’s too easy to walk away from doing the work because the first pass didn’t work, neither did the second nor the third. Perhaps the 11th draft of a poem sucks the spirit dry with the minutiae of refinement.

    We think it should come easily. We want a second and third life to accomplish the things that we think might make this life complete.

    asparagus_eggs_anneliesz

    When I started taking photos of food, I harbored an intent and desire to capture the color of blanched carrots, the snap of spring green asparagus. I found myself smitten with the expression of ingredients mingling together on the plate, prepared with the deft skill of a painter’s palette or the subtle intricacies of a perfumer making its way into the flavor pairings. My snap-happy finger started from wanting to capture the moment untouched before the moment was devoured. It grew into a passion for the interplay and conversation between shadows and light. Walking through my kitchen, that long shadowy glance cast on my countertop could stop me in my steps as heartbreaking appreciation of my San Francisco light swelled and came into focus.

    How it still makes my heart skip a beat!

    How it still makes me look for my camera and a willing subject!

    rhubarb_cake_anneliesz

    Poetry and food have cast their spell on me and so often I have little to feed my muses. Their mottled forms straggle out of the frame waiting for me to stop all the other things that wile away my time and pay homage. Poetry and food coalesced unexpectedly in conversation with New York Times photographer Andrew Scrivani late last year when we first met and became friends in New Orleans. We played the game, “who is my favorite poet based on my photographic work” and somehow I guessed rightly.

    Which is to say, I cheated. All men like Bukowski.

    Last month, a mutual friend posted that Andrew would be leading a food photography workshop in San Francisco and without skipping a beat and later fessing up to flaking out on prior plans, I signed up. He described food photography as “mastering the daylight as best you can.” He described the rote food photography style evidenced in so much of the media we consume. This referenced something Alexandra Peters of the Wall Street Journal said – if we were to define the contemporary art movement or style it could easily be called “commercialism.” In the same article reviewing the book “The Value of Art” by Michael Findlay, Peters shares a quote from Findlay that “[o]ne of the signs of a decaying culture is a reverence for form over content.”

    It’s too easy to create for sheer consumption. It’s too easy to let current trends and styles inform the direction your work might take. It’s easy to qualify and compare your craft to what sells. And this makes me wonder about creating for consumption, creating to conform, creating for cash as king.

    pepper_calamari_anneliesz

    In the food photography workshop, Scrivani described his appreciation for the Dutch painters as informing his sensibility of how he tries to capture light. That chiaroscuro moodiness made me smile remembering my multiple trips to see Rembrandt’s “Bathsheba” and how her luminous skin glowed amidst the darkening colors pooling around her and the darkening expression on her face from the letter she held.

    His comment pushed me right out of photography into studio art and in its way, back into poetry. It made me think of Michael Waters‘ admonitions to keep a journal to keep notes and quotes from scouring articles on art to see how what’s being done in that medium might work its way into ours. This happened often during those five hours, whether he incited us to consider using negative space as a painter would or to use diptychs to convey the whole story through subtle details.

    radishes_anneliesz

    In the unlit back room of Noe Valley restaurant, Contigo, he urged us on.

    “Learn your frame.”

    “You should be taking photos with your eyes all day.”

    When all is right with the world, I dwell fixed in what I call poetry mind. Instead of birds on the sidewalk, I see pigeons nervously loitering and pecking for an honest day’s wage. Instead of moving on to the next thing, I capture the possibility of the moment. When all is as it ought, I stop.

    I smell the air and find it to be redolent of eucalyptus.

    meatballs_anneliesz

    We think it should come so easily.

    I emerged from Andrew’s workshop intent to work on form, knowing the content will come like a maddening vixen of a game of tag between light and food. I am day five into immersing myself in the poetry calisthenics of a Week of Villanelles, a poetry form that is keeping me on my toes and making my pulse quicken.

    A wise person once said, “As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another.” The art and soul of craft comes of conspiring and commiserating in community and then venturing off alone to go do the work.

    chocolate_chip_cookies_anneliesz

    As for me, I have so much still to learn. But isn’t that exhilarating in its possibility?

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    hero-foods-cookbook

    You might think Seamus Mullen’s new Hero Food cookbook is a health-centric cookbook from the press it’s been receiving. It’s true, he writes a whole chapter on his hero food, parsley and waxes poetic about the benefits he finds from his daily drink of Parsley Juice (p. 155), but don’t be deceived. “Hero Food” may talk about foods that make Mullen feel better but he approaches it from the culinary perspective of the New York chef star that he is. This is notably evident in his technique tips dispersed throughout like the photo instructions of Cutting Up a Duck (p.120).

    I became intrigued with the idea of “Hero Food” through reading a day in the life meal journal via the Vulture and then also through the spread in Bon Appetit. Years ago at the New York Wine & Food Festival just after Mullens’ stint on the TV cooking competition, “Next Iron Chef America,” we met. I had been impressed with his professionalism and the creative concoctions of food he put together during the show and was just as equally taken with his friendly demeanor and delicious food in person. What I learned from the articles above that really made my admiration grow is that he suffered a flare-up of RA, rheumatoid arthritis during the heat of the finals for Next Iron Chef America. RA is a cause close to my heart and something I’m trying to learn about. Mullen shares, “In the years since that diagnosis, I’ve come to understand a very, very important part of my disease and that is the effect food has on overcoming the discomfort of my RA.” (p.3)

    See, my Mama has rheumatoid arthritis. She has good days and other days when she doesn’t move far or fast. The idea behind “Hero Food” of preparing and eating foods that can be nourishing and healing, thoughtfully prepared with the intention of flavor and reducing inflammation instantly hooked me. So much so that for Mother’s Day I bought and sent a copy to Mama for her to scribble her own notes in the margins.

    But this is not a cookbook relegated for the health aisle of bookstores, it is chock full of sumptuous recipes like Pan Roast of Arctic Char with Sorrel Sauce. Mullen takes creative license listing out his 10 “hero foods”, foods that he feels bring benefit to his body and living with RA. They also happen to be foods he is passionate about eating anyway. The book is divided into four seasonal sections starting with Winter in Barcelona, moving onto Spring on his Rooftop in New York, then onto Summer on the Farm, and finally Autumn in Vermont. Each of these locales is central to his style of cooking and he is sure to include stories or snippets of how he got inspired to create the recipe in his head notes or in the chapter introductions.

    His hero foods consist of olive oil, dried beans, almonds, grains, anchovies, sweet peas, parsley, berries, carrots, corn, stone fruit, squash, mushrooms, and greens. Additional chapters on good eggs, good birds, good fish and good meat take a moment to consider the conditions and environmental impact on the food in question. In good birds, he talks a bit about factory egg farms, describing the conditions and then considering how those conditions affect the lives of the birds and in the end, the food that we eat. Being raised in Vermont, Mullen describes his childhood on the farm with his homesteader parents (and butcher mom!), as well as the difference between a free range chicken hunting for its food and the kind of egg it lays. This upbringing impacts his cooking. The cookbook is dedicated to his grandmother “Mutti” and she makes an appearance in recipes like the Plum Cake (p. 212) or in stories throughout the book.

    Parsley-Juice-Hero-Foods-Seamus-Mullen

    My style of cooking is to take what I like and leave the rest. Since I haven’t eaten pork or any derivatives for almost six months, I did find myself flipping quickly through the Spanish section of the cookbook looking for more veggie-friendly recipes more my speed. And I found them quite easily.

    Chilled-Carrot-Soup-Hero-Foods-Seamus-Mullen

    We made Mullen’s easy Chilled Carrot Soup with Tarragon and Yogurt (p. 186) on a balmy Saturday evening and found it to be a refreshing side to the Tortilla Espanola (p. 111). A delectable perk to the Tortilla Espanola resulted in onion and garlic infused olive oil dregs which have tastefully imbued their flavor into weeknight food. What seemed better for a sultry Sunday afternoon than the Sunday Roast Chicken (p. 130)? One morning we happily drank Mullens’ well-loved Parsley Juice (p. 155). We found the Salsa Verde (p. 155) an easy sauce that brought a bit of zip as a finishing sauce for roasted fish or drizzled on roasted veggies.

    Tortilla-Espanola-Hero-Foods-Seamus-Mullen

    His “10 Things to Do with” lists on almonds (p. 58) and corn (p. 193) give clever recipe idea asides also buried in the chapter introductions, which are really superb considerations of multiple uses beyond the recipe for some of his hero food ingredients.  Several of the recipes in “Hero Foods” felt familiar. Mama’s housemade salsa reminds me of his recipe for sofrito (p. 65) with essentially the same ingredients and process. His recipe for White Peaches, Pistachios, Honey and Ricotta (p. 211) reminded me of my own Elberta Peaches with Housemade Ricotta because really what is better than fresh peaches and just strained warm ricotta?

    peaches and ricotta and mint

    Recipes I’m planning on tackling in coming weeks include entrees including Lamb Meatballs in Tomato Sauce with Ricotta (p. 293), Chilled Sweet Pea Soup (p. 147) and Stuffed Spaghetti Squash (p. 254). Some interesting and fun takes on traditional foods include Mullen’s Homemade Lamb Bacon with Kale and an Egg (p. 290) and a refreshing take on Ranch dressing of Kefir Vinaigrette (p. 148). Savory side dishes caught my eye: Cremini Mushrooms al Aijillo (p. 265), Spicy Rapini with Almonds (p. 272) and Chard Croquettes (p. 280).

    In short, Seamus Mullen has created a cookbook that Marion Nestle recommends on the front cover. “This gorgeous book proves without a doubt the point I’ve been making for years: Healthy food is delicious!” If you are looking for fresh ideas on cooking with seasonal ingredients that also happen to be “hero foods” get your hands on this cookbook. Then again, if you happen to be someone smitten with Spanish cuisine and culture, this is a good book for you. And if you have rheumatoid arthritis, consider that the food you cook and eat might be your heroes too. For a fun Q&A, check out this Q&A on Goop with Chef Seamus Mullen.

     

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    green-tea-coconut-rice

    I’m a bit obsessed with Matcha green tea.

    Maybe it has something to do with the bright grassy flavor that almost makes the mouth pucker. Perhaps it’s because with Matcha, you drink the entire tea leaf, not leaves infused in hot water and then removed. It could be the disarmingly green color and hear me clearly, it should be bright and bold.

    The color actually reflects the quality of the tea. While there are cheap versions of Matcha out there, you’ll find them to be dull in color and flat in flavor. Spend the money and invest in good Matcha. You might find yourself newly obsessed. This Japanese green tea typically is served infused with hot water and a special whisk to froth it. Often times, and in the United States it’s become popular to whisk Matcha with hot milk for a creamy beverage.

    Maybe you’ve tried Matcha and you didn’t know it. If you’ve guzzled a Green Tea Smoothie or licked and slurped Green Tea ice cream, then chances are pretty high that you too have lapped on the luxurious green tea that is Matcha.

    So it’s not such a far leap to consider how that bright, grassy flavor might deepen the creamy decadence that is Coconut Rice. I give you two suggestions below: for a more subtle Green Tea Coconut Rice, use only 2 teaspoons of Matcha and you’ll find the tea will paint the rice kernels a pale green with a flavor profile that is creamy, almost sweet with a slight green tea finish. For something a bit more bold and pictured below, use 2 tablespoons of Matcha green tea and you’ll find a much more pronounced tea flavor, a bright green hue with a slight creaminess of coconut. This bolder Green Tea Coconut Rice really works well and stands up to Asian cuisine like the Thai take-out we ordered for dinner earlier in the month.

    green-tea-coconut-rice

    Green Tea Coconut Rice

    This is one grassy and stark green rice. If you want something a bit more subtle where you get the green tea flavor in the finish with the coconut milk playing front fiddle, use only 2 teaspoons of Matcha. I tried it this way and it is a subtle cerulean green with a creamy slightly sweet flavor that ends on a grassy bright note. I prefer mine with more tea and even found it stood up to the flavors of Thai food when we paired it with take-out earlier in the month. It’s your call. I wouldn’t suggest swapping out light coconut milk for the real deal. It’s really quite pronounced of a difference and your rice is left wanting that supple quality that the full fat milk brings to it and the mingling with tea. Also, I tried this recipe with basmati rice but found the texture to be superb with a long grain white rice which served as a great canvas for the flavors. Special thanks goes out to friend Caryl at Lotus Foods for giving me samples of their specialty Mekong Flower rice to test in the recipe. It cooked up beautifully and gave a great texture.

    YIELD: 6-8 side servings

    1 1/2 cups water

    2 tablespoons Matcha green tea

    2 cups long grain white rice

    1 13.5 ounce can coconut milk

    1. Rinse rice twice and discard rinsing liquid. Set aside.
    2. Bring water to a gentle boil. Measure out your Matcha and place in a measuring receptacle (like my Pyrex 2 cup measuring glass), slowly whisk in the boiling water. Now this is key: while you are eventually going to add enough water to the Pyrex glass to equal that 1 ½ cups, initially during the whisking stage, you want to only pour in a little bit of water- say ½ cup as it will make whisking easier. As you notice that any large clumps or notice that your tea is without clumps, add the rest of the hot water and whisk.
    3. Add your coconut milk and whisked Matcha tea to a heavy pot and place over high heat, stirring together. Once you find that the coconut milk and Matcha have integrated well and you are beginning to have larger bubbles on the surface of the liquid, add the rinsed rice and stir.
    4. Cover your pot and turn down the heat. Simmer for 20 minutes on low heat.

     

    SERVING SUGGESTIONS
    This is a very versatile and unexpected side dish. The key is to pair it with foods that will not overpower the Matcha and coconut flavors.  I’ve provided a few ideas to get you started. Let me know if you come up with your own pairing suggestions.

    FISH- Consider pairing with a filet of salmon or perhaps this Confetti Tilapia.

    VEGETARIAN- Serve with a side of the white beans from this stew.

    CHICKEN-  Try this with roasted chicken seasoned with garlic, ginger and shallots.

    green-tea-coconut-rice-toasted

    DOUBLE THE COCONUT
    You could dice fresh coconut and throw it into the pot for an extra punch of coconut or textural difference. You could even toast some unsweetened coconut and then sprinkle some on top of your finished fluffed rice as pictured above. I find that the rice is lovely without either of these additions, though I tried it with both. Your choice.

    { 2 comments }