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Food Poetry: Stracciatella Frozen Yogurt
Recipe Box: Stracciatella Frozen Yogurt
I’m a sucker for plain yogurt. It might be the one ingredient that is always in our refrigerator and definitely the one I lament when the container is emptied. Whether incorporating it into a savory or sweet recipe, plain yogurt- organic cow’s milk and full fat if you please and more often plain goat’s milk yogurt is one staple here to stay.
One of the main reasons we eat so much yogurt is for the probiotic qualities. Beck and I heartily concur on the benefits probiotics have brought about for us individually. We feel better. I, for one, am looking forward to a day when a visit to the doctor proffers a prescription of specific probiotic strains to cure what ails you and not just antibiotics which kill all bacteria- good and bad. While that day is long off, I could geek out about probiotics for a while and have written somewhat extensively about them elsewhere. Suffice it to say that lacto-fermented foods and kombucha have a found a fan in me.
If you’re shopping the yogurt aisle with probiotics in mind, I would encourage you to check the ingredient label and company stance on probiotics in yogurt. Nancy’s is a great example of this and they have a pretty thorough probiotics section on their website.
Back to yogurt though, several years ago when a Pink Berry created frozen yogurt pandemonium I became enamored of the new approach of a tart and tangy fro-yo rather than the cloyingly sweet variety. At one National Restaurant Association show I attended, I made a point to do a tasting of all the tart plain fro-yo from the scads of suppliers and purveyors rating them on creaminess, tartness and sweetness.
That said, frozen yogurt is still an occasional treat. Most evenings when I want something creamy and cold, I opt for a few spoonfuls of plain goat’s milk yogurt, sweetened with a tablespoon of mini chocolate chips. The slight sweetness of the chocolate chips with the mellowed tart flavor of the yogurt hit the spot. I decided to tackle this combination in a fro-yo version that recalls one of my favorite flavors of gelato (Rocher or some semblance of Gianduja being the other).
For making the frozen yogurt below, adding in a quarter cup of sugar is not a necessity but it definitely ups the ante of this treat giving an ever so slightly sweetness that plays off the texture of the chipped chocolate that defines Stracciatella.
Stracciatella Frozen Yogurt
I find it’s helpful to grip the chocolate in its wrapper as you’re carefully chipping it. Think thin ribbons of chocolate rather than big chunks. By using the goat’s milk yogurt, you’ll get a slightly tangy but more mellow yogurt flavor than cow’s milk yogurt. If you opt for cow’s milk yogurt, go full fat as it really gives a deep tangy flavor with a rich creaminess. This frozen yogurt is not super sweet, and you could certainly use bittersweet chocolate rather than semisweet if you want. This frozen yogurt should be eaten the day it’s made as it will freeze into one solid block in the freezer.
YIELDS: 8 servings (1/2 cup)
- 4 cups (32 oz.) plain goat’s milk yogurt
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1/2 cup semisweet chocolate (about 3 oz. chipped, noted below)
1. Place the ice cream canister in the freezer overnight so it’s really cold when you’re ready to make your frozen yogurt.
2. Take a chef’s knife and carefully bring the knife down on the chocolate, chipping it from the block of chocolate until the chocolate is completely chipped.
3. In a large bowl, blend in the plain goat’s milk yogurt, sugar and chipped chocolate. Once integrated, pull out your ice cream canister from the freezer and follow your ice cream machine’s manufacturing instructions. Check on the frozen yogurt as it’s solidifying, taking care to stop the machine and scrape the edges down if it seems to be sticking to the walls. Then start the machine up again until it reaches the right consistency. (My Cuisinart 2 Quart Frozen Yogurt and Ice Cream Maker takes about 20-25 minutes of active churn time.)
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Twenty four hours to kill in Trieste
24 hours in Trieste, Italy.
Our cruise ship had not been able to put us on the return flight the day we returned to port. Tired and with a surprise treat of 24 hours left in Italy, we decided to drop off our bags in the hotel where the cruise ship put us up before working our way outside.
Traveling with Olga in Italy, she played part time tour guide, full time opera mezzo. I bemusedly grinned each time she launched into Italian with aplomb and gusto.
Instead of taking a nap and then trolling the streets of Trieste, Olga suggested a side trip to Venice with our extra day. Who was I to disagree?
We walked over to the train station to buy our tickets and wait for the train to arrive. The trip to Venezia would take several hours one way. After being mostly on the Mediterranean for the past 12 days with a few ports of call visited, it felt comforting to think of heading to a town known for its waterway transportation.
Along the way, we befriended a traveler from Sophia, Bulgaria. I apparently decided to step into the role of “that” American, peppering him with questions about yogurt and buttermilk… From our seats, Olga and I watched Italian countryside whiz by outside.
My excitement built as the train finally began to slow down near our stop.
Anything I might have read about or thought of Venice previous to this point could not prepare me for the sheer beauty and quirky charm of this city with its meandering canals and interesting architecture. We coursed our way in crowded streets, chock full of tourists and doing our best to not be tourists and to soak in the local culture.
Every twist and turn held intrigue and my naturally snap-happy self kept the shutter on my camera busier than usual. We meandered over bridges and down corridors to the bustling Piazza San Marco with its grand church and the iconic former housing for the procurators of St. Mark. An Indian family fed pigeons, and I caught the mother feeding a bird from her hand as the bird’s wings were in motion and frozen in the frame at the same time. We moseyed into a nearby caffe and ordered espresso at the standing bar and felt the short shot of caffeine do its work. We ventured into several stores selling hand blown Venetian glass, marveling at the colors and the handiwork. Olga and I bought rubber stamps emblazoned with our initials and Venetian building archetypes molded into the design from a store specializing in handmade marbleized papers.
In this city, it was so easy to imagine the unimaginable coming true.
Even though it was not their busy season, we were surprised by the crowds and the kind of heat that jettisoned off of the stone buildings only to pummel us. As is true of my previous Italian adventure, we made time for gelato and welcomed the cheerful piccolo cups with their brightly hued plastic spoons. Two hands reached over the counter, taking my euro and replacing my empty hands with a cup of Stracciatella and Rocher gelato. Cold and creamy, the ribbons of finely chopped bittersweet chocolate played off of the sweet cream with a hint of vanilla. It was perfect.
We continued walking the corridor at a leisurely pace, drinking in the glint of sunlight on the fractal diamonds of a window that shimmered. I could imagine men and women decked out in costumes and masks and felt myself a player in a live action drama. If I closed my eyes, I could see Olga burst out with an aria to no one’s chagrin. I pondered if that sense of wonder was something Venetians still possess and thought about my lukewarm relationship to the San Francisco landmarks that make visitors marvel.
We checked our watches to note only 30 minutes remained before the train would arrive. Early the next morning, we would set off for the States, putting an end to this voyage hallmarking my birthday and the passing of time.
If we stop to think about the span of our lives, the brevity can be staggering, a mere blip of time for us to use as we will. What would have been the safe option that day in Trieste would have been to stay in town especially for our two Type A personalities.
But we would have missed the magic of Venice.
Tomorrow, it will be two weeks since Olga’s mother passed away. When I consider the breadth of living Sally squeezed into her life, I recognize that shared desire to take and eat, to live and live well. Over the course of her life she accomplished so much and that continues to inspire me to step up to the plate.
Instead of a funeral, last weekend we attended a celebration of life. Hat stands decorated the room, situated around the coffin. The stands were bedecked with colorful hats that ran the gamut of the colors of the rainbow. Each hat bore its cheering presence at a time that could have only been mournful. As the service ended, Olga proceeded to the podium bearing the grace that her mother and opera bestowed upon her. As she thanked guests for attending, she invited each of us to find and adopt one of the 75 hats. We joined the throng afterwards, walking forward row by row to pay our respects.
Women in the lobby donned pink hats, blue hats, and yellow. I could imagine Sally smiling upon the room full of family and friends decked out in her hats. A sassy red wool felt hat perched atop my head and received a number of compliments at the Denver airport that evening. The hat sits on our art bar even now. It reminds me to dream bigger as I can hear her saying as she asked me once, “what’s holding you back?”
I think back to that unexpected escapade to Venice and can almost feel the sunshine beating on my back. I can almost make out those corridors leading to unknown destinations and the bridges over canals that will take me there. I’m left craving a scoopful of Stracciatella Frozen Yogurt that lets me go back and also dream on.
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